The Medieval Village of Campo

Among the lush olive groves on the eastern shore of Lake Garda lies the medieval village of Campo di Brenzone, a place that is now almost completely uninhabited, where time seems to have stood still. Its ancient houses tell stories of distant times, of farmers and travellers who once walked its narrow cobbled streets.

The village of Campo, located in the municipality of Brenzone sul Garda, is a charming place that has retained its identity, remaining untouched by the frenzy of modern life, where silence is broken only by the rustling of the wind through the centuries-old olive trees.

In this article, I will take you on a journey to discover the medieval village of Campo di Brenzone, its history and how the local inhabitants shaped the Monte Baldo area to make it suitable for olive cultivation.

The art of cultivating olive trees

In this particular area of Lake Garda, manual olive harvesting is a tradition that dates back many centuries. As numerous documents attest, this practice avoided beating the branches with sticks and poles, thus preserving the health of the trees and ensuring an optimal harvest.

In the terraced areas of the upper lake, olive groves were planted very densely and left to grow tall, making it necessary to use special tools for harvesting. The goiòor, as the harvesters were called, used a special ladder called scalìi or scariòo, made from a slightly squared fir pole up to twelve metres long. The crossbars, known as caùce, were made from olive or cornel wood and fixed to the pole at regular intervals, forming a fishbone pattern. This ladder, still in use today, rested on a pointed iron foot called pè de scalìi, ensuring stability during harvesting.

Climbing confidently up the ladder, firmly planted in the ground and leaning against the sturdy forks of the trees, the pickers ran their hands along the branches to detach the olives. These fell onto sheets spread out under the trees or collected directly into the gremàl, a leather bag tied around the waist, with a wooden frame that kept it open at the top. Once the bag was full, they climbed down to transfer the olives to canvas sacks, ready for processing.

Over the centuries, olive cultivation has shaped the landscape of Monte Baldo, characterising its slopes with large terraced areas supported by dry stone walls. These walls, sometimes more than three metres high, were built with stones and limestone slabs found on site, carefully stacked to ensure stability. The base was made of larger boulders, while smaller stones were used towards the top to reinforce the structure.

Behind the wall, the soil was filled according to a specific method: coarse material was placed at the bottom, then covered with finer soil, creating an ideal surface for olive trees to grow. This system allowed for natural drainage, preventing water from stagnating and damaging the plants, which prefer well-aerated, dry soil.

A document dating back to the first half of the 18th century describes the agricultural practices in the olive groves of Lake Garda, many of which are still handed down from generation to generation today. Every spring, after checking and repairing the dry stone walls, the soil around the olive trees was dug up to allow better aeration of the roots. Every three years, the trees were fertilised with manure and pruned, according to a tradition that continues to be respected today. During pruning, a procedure called cavàr el mars was also carried out, a meticulous operation to remove rotten parts of the wood using a gouge.

From spring to autumn, the olive grove did not require any special attention, but with the arrival of November, the manual harvesting of the olives began, an activity that could continue until the following March, marking the rhythm of an agricultural tradition that still retains the charm of ancient gestures.

Visit Campo di Brenzone

Campo di Brenzone is a jewel nestled between Monte Baldo and Lake Garda, which has remained unchanged over time thanks to a long period of semi-abandonment, which paradoxically has preserved its authenticity. Over the last twenty years, the village has been the focus of studies and conferences that have highlighted its historical and architectural value.

Curious fact - A local legend tells that on a night of San Lorenzo long ago, a bright star crossed the sky, drawn by the beauty of the Earth. Filled with the power of the universe, it descended until it touched the slopes of a majestic mountain overlooking the lake, releasing all its energy. From that moment on, the land became more lush and the inhabitants of the shore built a small village where they could live in peace.

Walking up from the Gardesana road, we arrive at the northern entrance of the village, on the edge of the Madonna dell'Aiuto valley, where there is a small shrine. Built in 1938 by Ivan Bendinoni and Andrea Dall'Olio, as indicated by an inscription on the back, it is a stone hut-shaped structure with a tiled roof that preserves its ancient charm. Inside, the niche contains a splendid wooden sculpture of Jesus Crucified, restored and kept behind a wrought iron gate.

Continuing along the path, we enter the small village of Campo, where we can feel the uniqueness of this place compared to other villages around the lake. While elsewhere the houses have undergone numerous, often invasive transformations, Campo has managed to maintain its appearance.

The absence of motor roads has preserved the original charm of the village, offering an authentic glimpse into rural life of the past. Here, every stone tells the story of a community that had to adapt to the climatic conditions, landscape and production needs, making the best use of available materials and traditional building techniques.

Continuing the exploration, we arrive at the most characteristic and best preserved building in Campo di Brenzone: the ancient church of San Pietro in Vincoli. The village is mentioned as early as 1023 in a document from the Monastery of San Zeno in Verona, while the church of San Pietro in Vincoli may date back to before the 12th century. Some historians believe that the sacred building can be identified with the chapel of Saints Simon and Jude and St. John the Evangelist, mentioned in a papal bull by Pope Adrian IV in favour of the archpriest of Malcesine, Manfredo. Its architectural features reveal the Romanesque influences typical of rural churches in the Lake Garda area, with a west-facing facade in keeping with tradition.

Rebuilt in the 18th century, the small church of San Pietro in Vincoli has nevertheless retained its gabled profile, while the side walls and semicircular apse have remained intact over time. Today, upon entering, we can still admire a precious cycle of frescoes painted in 1358 by the painter Giorgio da Riva, which decorate the northern and southern walls, the archivolt and the apse. In the immediate vicinity of the church, there is a precious water source and a washtub, used in the past by local women to wash clothes.

Behind the church is the entrance to the path that leads to Prada Alta. From here, it is possible to reach a small terrace in just a few minutes, offering a bird's eye view of the village of Campo and Lake Garda below.

Nativity scenes and concerts in Campo di Brenzone

During the Christmas season, the village is transformed into a fairy-tale setting thanks to the ‘Natale a Campo’ event and its evocative display of nativity scenes. Every corner of the village comes to life with displays that tell the story of the Nativity in original ways, using local materials and traditional craft techniques.

With the arrival of summer, Campo comes alive with a series of open-air concerts, where musicians and artists of various genres perform under the stars at the ‘Campo Teatro degli Ulivi’, transforming the small village into a natural stage. During the summer, the ‘Notti magiche a Campo’ event is the perfect opportunity to rediscover the charm of this timeless place.

How to get to Campo di Brenzone

The medieval village of Campo is easily reachable by following the Gardesana Orientale road (SR249) towards Brenzone sul Garda until Magugnano. Here, I recommend you to park your car in Via della Disciplina, where there is a small paid car park. Alternatively, if you are travelling by motorbike, you can park for free in the car park located a few metres before. From there, walk along Via Cà Romana, following the numerous signs along the way. The first part of the trail is on a paved road with some steep sections, while the second part crosses olive groves on a gravel trail to the medieval village of Campo. The one-way trail is about 1.5 km long and can be covered in about thirty minutes, taking a few short breaks to photograph the landscape.

Travel tips - The terrain is typically hilly, so I recommend wearing suitable clothing and hiking boots to ensure your safety. If you want to bring a packed lunch, please note that there are no benches or rubbish bins along the trail, so please behave appropriately and respect the environment. Campo di Brenzone can be visited at any time of year and does not present any particular difficulties. See you soon and enjoy your trip! 😉

Image gallery of Campo di Brenzone

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Map of Campo di Brenzone

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